What are cosmeceuticals in skincare and why do I recommend and sell the brands I have chosen for my clinic!

I have realized over recent years that I love allowing my clients to relax and enjoy the entire experience of treatments here at The Beauty Suite and that my blogs are a wonderful way to share all my expertise and years of knowledge without having to overwhelm you during your relaxing treatments – unless you want me to of course.

I am going to begin by explaining why I use and sell the products I do and how their ingredients effect your varying skin concerns. This will allow you to understand future blogs and varying products I am recommending for your personalized prescription of salon treatments and home care.

What is a cosmeceutical?

The term, “cosmeceutical“ is a combination of the words ”cosmetics“ and “pharmaceuticals“. It was introduced by the American dermatologist Professor Albert Kligman. The products connect the field of cosmetics and medicine. In my clinic both Ultraceuticals and Green Peel products in retail and salon treatments are classed as cosmeceuticals. This is because of their active ingredients and high percentages of “actives”.

What differentiates cosmeceuticals from general non-salon products?

Cosmeceutical products contain the highest possible concentration of ingredients allowed before being classified as pharmaceuticals. Consequently, they are highly effective for reversing skin concerns and problems without causing undue irritation to the skin. Prescription creams for example might cause undesired side effects such as skin irritations, redness and flaking, and can only be used for short periods of time. Whereas, Cosmeceuticals have been carefully crafted with a combination of quality ingredients and actives that are buffered and more readily accepted into the skin with minimal to zero irritation.

Are they formulated differently?

Highly efficient cosmeceuticals are developed under scientific conditions and their quality is backed by efficiency studies. In order to achieve maximum effects, cosmeceuticals should not include counterproductive additives (perfume, possible allergens, and strong preservatives). The product matrix should guarantee a good availability respectively corresponding to the skin’s physiology. This applies to topical pharmaceuticals too. In the case of pharmaceuticals the focus is usually not upon these aspects of the product though.

Hence, I chose brands that are chemical or paraben free, not tested on animals, and which do not contain a high percentage of preservatives or perfumes or colorants. Arbonne especially prides itself on being pure, safe and beneficial. The best of science and nature in a milder form of active ingredients compared to Ultraceuticals, which means it will suit most people’s skin, of all ages, without irritation. There is literally something for the whole family within the Arbonne range, from babies and teens, to the mature skin. This is what I love most about Arbonne. It’s affordable active skincare for everyone.
My skincare lines offer the best of science and nature, with your overall health and wellbeing in mind, from skincare to makeup and nutritional products. Plant based, vegan, gluten free, dairy free, fragrance free, no artificial colours, sweeteners or perfumes and much more.

How can they, (ingredients or actives), surpass the basal membrane and reach the dermis, even the hypodermis and deposit their main actives wherever they must reach? Is this just a marketing tool?

The dermal layer of the skin is where you ideally want your product to penetrate as this is where your collagen and elastin are formed which is what keeps your skin from prematurely ageing, when it is stimulated and feed with the correct percentage of active ingredient.

Pharmacy and some department stores and supermarket brands will not typically penetrate this deeper layer of skin. Rather than having an age reversing or cellular effect, they tend to be less refined and tend to sit on the epidermis (top layer) and have a minimal effect. Topical pharmaceuticals intervene in the physiology of the skin and the underlying tissue and deeper layers, where we don’t necessarily need our skin care to go. Additionally, they can have an effect systemically (via the blood circulation).

Thus, there is a fine line between not active enough to have much effect and repair the skin, to being too active missing the mark on achieving what we want where we want in the skin. Your Cosmeceuticals hit the mark just right and work on exactly what they are designed to do. As your skincare expert I can map out for you, the most ideal products and ingredients, to suit your skin needs and concerns, upon close inspection and detailed face to face consultation. I also offer skype consultations if time is of the essence for you or you are out of town.

What are the main active ingredients used in the formulation of cosmeceuticals? What textures are mostly used?

Some active ingredients are attributed to specific biochemical and physiological influences on skin regeneration, which are backed by scientific studies and product testing. Mostly it deals with antioxidants, retinoids, vitamins (A, C, E), phytohormones, peptides and growth factors. Even substances that are usually used for drugs can be included in cosmetics in very low concentrations under strict conditions. Ie retinols or vitamins A. Instead of orally taking a high doses of Vitamin A, I would strongly suggest you begin with topical Vitamin A, more localized to the area you want to treat, rather than systemically treating your entire system. Oral Vitamin A should be your last resort. Topical active skincare is where your focus should be to begin with, for all ages and genders.

INGREDITENTS: Ultraceuticals are based on Antioxidants, retinoids, vitamins A,C,E and peptides, AHA’s, BHA’s and enzymes. Arbonne is based on vitamin C, stem cell orange extract. Vitamin E, Algae extract, peptides, ceremides and plant based actives, such as retinols and fruit acids, that all stimulate collagen production and are refined enough to reach the dermal layers of the skin nearly as effectively as the higher strength products.

Being highly concentrated formulas, is there a risk of adverse effects? Must a specialist recommend their use?

Treatment results are visible within a short period of time. These results are backed by scientific studies and product testing, and case studies that are made available to the consumer. Often the combination of synergistic active ingredients leads to fantastic treatment results. Side effects such as those that occur in the case of pharmaceuticals, can almost be excluded. Today’s market offers modern and scientifically tested products with proven effectiveness – these should be recommended thoroughly by specialists, such as a senior qualified beauty therapist and skin care expert or plastic surgeons and their trained staff. As trained skin experts we will evaluate your skin concerns and needs and slowly build you up to using higher strength products over time for the best results possible for your skin type and concerns. Being under the watchful eye of a skincare expert means you can slowly introduce more active products into your homecare and salon routine over time and it can be adjusted to your specific needs and budget as you go.

I guarantee there is not a skin I cannot improve upon, and with over 27 years in the industry I have it all at my fingertips. If you would like to get started on a new skincare régime book a complimentary 30min skin consultation with me in salon or via skype and we can get you started. Looking the best you can be and beyond your wildest expectations! I will guarantee results.

Kimberlee Sweeney
Advanced Skin Therapist

Web: www.thebeautysuite.co.nz
Mobile: 021 2799 407
Email: kimberlee@thebeautysuite.co.nz